Bodhgaya- Varanasi

Patna-Bodhgaya-Varanasi

01st - 06th of October 2017

So a bunch of ladies of the family decided to go on a pilgrimage with a difference. 

We checked the hotels online, read the reviews and finally decided to go with the recommendations made by acquaintances which was a better option. We booked the taxi and the tickets and voila, we were set for our trip  about 20 days in advance.

We read about the places to visit and the known tourist attractions and prepared our itinerary. 

Day-1 Hyd-Patna-Bodhgaya

We flew into Patna (Bihar) which stood upto its reputation of being dirty and filthy to no level explainable. I did not see any footpaths, as there was only heaps garbage on either side of the roads. Our first stop was the famous Patandevi Temple (Shaktipeeth) which is on the way to Hajipur our next stop. Its is a small village through bad roads and small alleys. But we managed to reach our destination after a lot of wrong rights. 

It is important to have a right driver and a car for a long trip hence we decided to change our driver and waited at a mall in Patna for a change of driver and wasted about 2 hours (which was our designated Gaya Time). after half the day of travel and change of Taxi we reached our comfortable Bodhgaya Hotel (Hotel Bodhgaya Regency) (3hrs drive) where we stayed for 2 nights. It was pity we could not go Rajgir and (Jain Temple)

Day - 2 Bodhgaya

I was excited as Bodhgaya had been on my bucket list for a while and we first went to Gaya and saw the Vishwanath and Mangla Devi (Shaktipeeth) Temples. We did consider to go see the caves but the sun and the hike demotivated us. 

We head back to Bodhgaya and after choosing from the various restaurants which have glamourous but fake reviews online, ended up going to this nice place called Nirvana where they served us hot yummy food. We went to the Tibetan Monastery right next to the hotel and it was very peaceful and colourful. After resting for awhile we headed straight to the Mahabodhi Temple. Our hotel was in the center of the city so we just got on a tuk tuk and reached the Mahabodhi Temple. Cameras are allowed with a ticket but cell phones aren't allowed inside. The temple has a different vibe to it with the monks praying and meditating everywhere undisturbed. The back side of the temple has the Bodhi tree under which Lord Buddha attained enlightenment. The campus of the whole temple is spectacular with the open grounds and the Munchalinda Lake and the lighting of lamps room. The constant light chanting which is almost perpetual in the air transports you into a peaceful zone. It was an absolute delight for me to be there as I am a follow Buddhism. We went to the rooms where there were endless rows of lamps lit and we also lit a few lamps too. The monk sitting there spoke to us and gave us some insight over cause and effect and Wipassana which was a pleasant surprise. We again went back to find our Nirvana in food at the same restaurant which also has a very nice ambiance.  

Day- 3 Bodhgaya -  Varanasi.

WE woke upto a nice bright day and visited  The Great Buddha Statue which is in its true sense grand. We saw one more Buddhist monastery and left for Varanasi. Its a 5 hours drive and mind you there is really no proper place to take a break for refreshments. We ate some of our snacks which we had carried and tried to have tea in one of the dhaba. We reached Varanasi by late evening  and were quite tired to do anything. We stayed in Hotel Surya Kaisar Palace which was once upon a time the Palace of the  Nepal Kings in Varanasi. The main Dining area and the Swimming pool area is in the main Palace building and surrounding is the hotel rooms. The hotel is nothing short of royal and is extremely comfortable with only inconsistent food.

Day - 4 Varanasi

Most of the folks went temple hopping starting from the Kashi Vishwanath temple, and the Sankarmochan Temple, etc. etc. etc., and ofcourse the famous Banarasi saree shopping and the Ganga Aarti with Chaat refreshments in between.

Day-5 Varanasi

We went for the Abhishek darshan at 3 am at Kashi Vishwanath Temple where there were not too many people and the darshan were quite peacefully done and we got back and crashed.
As we woke up there was round 2 of shopping for food items and the famous wooden carved toys. The sweet dark Pendas are incomparable and delicious. We again shopped on the way to the Evening Ganga Aarti.  The boat man was our guide and gave us trivia on each of the ghats while we sailed in the serene and to me great surprise clean Ganges. We saw the royal palace ghats and the lovely umbrellas (Chattris) which are popular at the ghats. There are too many cows and buffaloes and dogs everywhere.  There are machines installed to clean the Ganges which seem to be doing the magic. Each Ghat has a story and each story is intriguing. Some of the most important ghats there are the Assi Ghat, Manikarnika ghat (Where the last rights are performed), Darbhanga ghat (palace ghat)., etc. The Main Ganaga Aarti happens at Dashashwamedh Ghat where Lord Ram's Father, King Dashrath had believed to perform the yagna. It was a full moon night and the view was spectacular.The Aarti is grand, the priests perform a meticulous ceremony where by they first offer prayers to all the 4 sides North, South, East and West, upon which they light the exquisite aartis (lamps) which are atleast 5-6 layered and quite tall and heavy. It for a second also resembled a well choreographed performance by well etiquette sharp men contrary to the image of shabby pot bellied priests that I had in mind. There were 13 aartis going on simultaneously and its a delightful sight. everybody present on the Ghats and on the boats are submerged in the aura of the evening and there were not less than 10,000 people or even more for obvious reasons.

Day - 6 Varanasi - Hyderabad

Our morning was free and everyone were way too tired to venture out shopping so stuck to the shop at the hotel and raided it. I decided to explore Saarnath which is about 30 mins drive from where we stayed. The temple is closed from 11am - 1:30pm rather the whole city is closed between those timings. so you need to plan accordingly. Saarnath again is similar to Bodhgaya . The temple there is grand yet simple. I went to the museum and saw the famous pillar and the ruins of the stupa. Its a stint of wonder what it could have been when it was in good shape. Ashoka had left some serious legacy behind. Soon it was time for us to end our holiday and we were at Varanasi Airport to head back to Hyderabad.

Bhutan

Bhutan 19th - 26th June 2018 (Jyoti and Namrata)

We got return tickets in April for June to fly to Bhutan, and decided on the itinery and patiently waited. Come June and we were all set.

On 19th we reached Kolkata and a friend came to see me from Gauhati and we literally painted the city red, shopping, trying signature food, Book shopping at the Oxford Book Store, had Kulhad ka chai and not to forget Mishti doi. It was everything one could do in kol in a day.

Day - 1  Kol - Paro - Thimphu

The stewards at 6:30am were in a rush to give us breakfast and take the boxes back as it was a short flight.We landed into a wonderful airport with a huge hoarding of the present King - Queen and the Prince, welcoming us.

Our chatty guide Bijoy and calm driver Sangey received us at the airport and we started our journey in our comfortable well kept Sentafe car - constants for the next 6 days.

En route Thimphu we stopped alongside the flowing river to soak our feet and buy some fresh peaches to soak up the fact that we finally made it to our holiday and welcome it. Surprisingly, it was hot and the Iphone weather report was silly stuck at rainy 10 degrees. Dont ever trust it and carry layers.

We reached Thimphu and left for sightseeing followed by lunch. We figured that food is there generally is very cheesy and spicy so had to constantly keep telling them to not make spicy food for us.  We went to all the touristy places, kept asking our guide to take us to the more non-touristy yet traditional places where we can feel the pulse of the place.

Besides going to the Museum, the Memorial, we also decided to go to the College of Art and the Paper factory where we saw their culture of learning, the traditional art and craft. We then went to the Buddha Point which was golden inside out and one of my personal fav. Post that we walked around the town and stopped by at Taj Thimphu for tea, which is done up very traditionally and right out side is the Market. The traditional architecture and artistic flare is maintained even till date and is mandatory for everyone who builds a house or a building to follow the standards.

Day - 2 Thimphu

After all the sightseeing and resting we again went back to the shops and they were quite interesting. Half the touristy things were closed due to maintenance. After that we went to the Motithang Takin Preservatory to see the national animal of Bhutan "The Takin" which has a head like a goat and body like a cow. There is a lot to walk around there and beside the Takin not much to see. So ppl with leg ache and tight on a schedule can skip it.The shopping of authentic Bhutani works were cheaper and more in variety in Thimpu. I liked Thimphu as it has a good blend of culture and monarchy run society and where the citizen actually respect and obey the law.
Places close by 5 pm or are closed due to renovation so it isn't a bad idea to figure it out before hand. 

Day - 3 Thimphu - Punakha -Wangdui

From Thimpu we left early for Punakha and on the way had a pit stop at the Punakha Memorial Chorten at Dochula Pass - which is one of the highest point. This was built in memory of the soldiers who lost their lives during the war in Bhutan. We went to the Chimi Lhankhang Monastery which is known as the fertility temple or the "Divine madmonk temple" as the story goes, the view from there is great the monastery is simple. Before which we had stopped at a family run restaurant for a quick lunch before where 3 sides of the place were glass and the view was to die for. .

We rushed to Punakha Dzong as it closes by 5:30. Its grand and nothing less than magnificent which is why the Royal weddings and the coronation happen here. The Dzong basically means the Fortress, so every Dzong is divided into, the administrative wing in the front and the monastery behind. I was yet again awestruck by its grandeur. It has multiple levels and is surrounded by mountains. I can not even begin to describe how gorgeous the main alter room is with the tall pine wood pillars gilded in gold. The statues of Lord Buddha, the Guru and the Unifier are beautifully carved and decorated like I have never seen before. The room is huge and walled with cabinets, with statues of  previous 108 head of the monks. All I wanted to do was lie down on that wooden floor and look at the colorful bright everything.

The Bhutanis style of Buddhist has everything decorated in the five colors representing the Elements.

Blue, Green, Yellow, Red and White.

The cute little lady guard had to shoo us out and we left with a heavy heart but next was a consolation. The Suspension Bridge which is 160 meters of metal, swaying to the winds over the Po Chu River and it is quite scary initially yet extremely calming once you get to the center and just adapt to the breeze  and look around  - the mountains, the valley, the river flowing below, and the wind all tune you to the natures glory inviting you to surrender yourself. It is an adventurous and an joyous feeling clubbed together. like some kind of a frenzie rapture or a light adrenaline.

From there we began our journey of a long drive to Wangdui. Wangdui is about realistically 1.5 hours drive which was casually told to be about 20 mins drive. We had a long long day and the drive isn't an easy one.

In middle of nowhere we reached Kichu Resort finally - our abode for a night. literally a night. Though the service and the resort were worth staying for a lifetime.

I have generally noticed that guides under estimate Punakha and end up giving very little time for Punakah, it is advisable to do the Dochula Pass on return in order to spend more time in Punakha Dzong which is absolutely worth it.

Day - 4 Wangdui - Thimphu -Paro

Enroute Paro we stopped at the Botanical park which is really vast to see some last batches of rhododendrons and some friendly wild sambars (Again this can be skipped too). We had lunch at Clove Bistro at Thimphu, probably our only lavish meal in Bhutan, and had their local yummy peach wine - Zumzin which we bought later to take it home. Cheap yet the yummiest wine. Once we reached Paro and settled in our resort we decided to explore the market in Paro and do some shopping. The Resort was nice but the service in Paro is very different from that of Thimphu and Punakha.

Day - 5 Paro - Tiger's Nest

Wow..... We decided to hike all the way and not take the horse half way, one way. We started from the base at 9:15 am. We hiked. hiked and hiked. Its a tough hike for the unfit ones, though with our low fitness levels we took a little over one hour to reach half way up to the cafe, where we took a break of 25-30 mins before we resumed our  tough journey to the Tiger's Nest. We were extremely lucky to have a clear nice day, not to sunny, no rains, touch wood. Once we resumed our trek the incline got steeper and we were out of breath more frequently, not that the air is thinner or anything but just the hike. The first half of the route is tougher but the so called steps aren't easy as well, as they are undefined and tall. As we see the Tiger's Nest getting closer the distance seems longer as the steps route is along the mountains and is quite tricky and strenuous. There were quite a lot of tourists hiking and kids also managed it well. Finally we reached. We felt accomplished. The guards at the monastery are  particular about people being appropriately dressed. No sleeveless, no short clothes etc.. The alter room is lovely, the statues were by far the best in Bhutan. The Tigers Nest had caught fire in 2006 and has been restored ever since. The Buddha statue is really tall and the 3D intricate design around it with the rest of the 7 forms of Buddha is lovely and with great details. There were 3 idols, Lord Buddha, the Guru and the Unifier and the present king is his descendant and the one who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan.There is another room which is known to be the wish fulfilling temple, infact the Tigers Nest is known to be the Wish fulfilling Monastery. There is one more alter room there and a tiny 3 ft passage which is considered to be the actual Tigers Nest. The myth goes on to believe that the enlightened one had 2 wives, one on Indian side and another on Tibet side and as the treachery of the demon grew unbearable the enlightened killed the demon riding on the tiger who was the Tibetian wife transformed into a tiger. After that they both meditated at the Tigers Nest and the tiny opening of 3 ft cave is where its believed, that the tiger meditated and hence the name.

There is a difference between the Bhutanese way of Buddhism and that of the Leh Ladakh style of Buddhism.

Day 6- Haa Valley

Haa Valley is about 3-4 hrs away from Paro. we started at 9:30am and the drive is not so smooth but the view makes it worth it, with every bent of the mountain. As we reached the mountain top of 3900 mtrs high, the chilly breeze carried a scent of the prayer fragrance and we were lucky to witness an intensive ceremony going on which happens once in a year or once in 2 years. It was being done for the wellness and peace of the mountain beings. The swaying bright flags all over made the lush green mountains look alive under the cloudy grey sky.

From there we descended down to the White and the Black monasteries. It is believed that a white and a black pigeon were left and wherever they landed they constructed these Monasteries. They are not very far from each other, with a distance of a 15 min hike. The White Monastery is grand and there are about 300 young monks and the alter room is done up really well too (Can avoid this). They also have a huge basket ball court. From there we went to the only restaurant in town, but as my frd wasnt feeling too well we just rested for a bit and proceed our journey back. There was a hospital for the Indian soldiers, and only found someone in the ICU to get a tablet for my frd. It was an exhausting drive and we only got back to our resort at 5:30pm.

Its pretty bad to fall sick in places like this as unless you aren't carrying medicines its difficult to find medical stores.

I went for a quick round of shopping to buy a silver bracelet with the 8 holy symbols of Buddhism carved, and other souvenir gifts for everyone back home.

Day 7-Paro - kol - Hyd

we quickly saw the Paro Dzong which was a smaller version of the Punakha Dzong but no less elaborate in terms of it intricate design and art. The view from the Dzong alter room and outside is of the valley and is lovely. WE went to the museum which showcases an video of the festivals in 21 towns of Bhutan dedicated to each avatar of Lord Buddha and has their masks. Everywhere you look around Bhutan is picturesque and is nothing less than a postcard view. 

From there we head to the Airport. And that was the end of out glorious mountain trip.

We head back home with lots of fond memories to cherish.

Nawabi Lucknow!!!

Nawabi Lucknow - 24-26th March 2018

Since a few months Lucknow was lurking around on my bucket list and I kept exploring its credibility. I had been to Lucknow as a child, a couple of times and was hosted by the Governor as he was family and escorted around by the ADC.

As children, we dont tend to see the prodigy of the glorious major things and disregard it until we grow up and begin to value the dexterity of even the minor things in life.  I am one of those fortunate ones who can re-live my childhood with replacing the mindlessness to mindfulness and imbibe the paralipsis of the facades. 

Some good frds in Lucknow suggested an hotel that I would like and planned the evenings together. 

I chose a long weekend and an early flight, so there I was for almost 3 full days. 

Day -1

I reached my hotel early in the morning - Lebua, Lucknow. My check inn was only at 2pm but they were kind enough to hand over the room to me at 9:30 am. As I reached the hotel, I was warmly welcomed and was awestruck by the well maintained heritage luxury property. The White structure was brightened with the blue and beige flooring, bright chandeliers, colourful cut glass walls and windows, and not to forget the bright bloomed flowered gardens and the quintessential antique curios. Initially when I landed I wasn't sure how I'd kill time before the touristy things opened for the day but time flew as I drowned in the antiquities of the hotel.

After a sumptuos breakfast at the hotel and reminding myself that there is more to Lucknow than Lebua, I got in my car and was off to start ticking off the list of places to visit. My fascination with Museums took me to the museum, which was a walk into the zoo and rather lame, however the only thing interesting there is the way they have displayed the Egyptian Mummy. From there I went to the Residency, Chattar Manzil and the Picture gallery. By noon I was quite disappointed and roasted in the heat so decided to visit the La Martiniere school before giving up for the day. The School was worth summing it all up. Its a beauty of another level, the campus is wide spread and the main building is a visually and an architecturally a grand treat.  Its spectacular eclectic entrance has a sense of  medieval royal feel. The high ceilings, the intricate frescos and carvings on them and the walls, the rich wooden doors with embellished knobs, the detailed carved metal floor grids, the animal skins on the walls, the frames, and so on and on, I can go on. I climbed up the narrow winding concrete steps leading to the boys dorm, without disturbing them I peeped through the metal grilled doors and the ceilings there too were enchanting with similar intricate patterns and they all had cots with blue velvet spreads with the school emblem which reminded me of Hogwarts.

The library there is not to miss in the lower floor. Their main hall is probably in true terms their Hall of Fame with exquisite intricate pattern centered with a chandelier on the light green ceiling and the outer hall with blue ceiling which is equally detailed. 

As you walk out you see the lions statues on the roof top and the scene reminded me of Rome.They have some very nice vintage cars parked in the compound next to the horse stables with a few finely bred horses. It indeed wud be a matter of pride to be a part of a school such as this and I wudnt mind going back to school here. 

After being enthralled by that I head off to have lunch at Moti Mahal which has good reviews for veg food , where my frd also joined me. Food was alright and I decided to shop some famous Lucknowi Chikkan as the popular boutique Ada was right next door and had AC, so managed to buy for everyone back home until my frd dragged me out saving me from going bankrupt. One can shop in Hazratgunj and Ameenabad markets as well.  The well known Universal Book Store was there and I did manage to get a book which I dint find in any other bookstore, considering the heat we decided to go back to the hotel and relax. The GM - Ms. Sunanina Sharma, insisted I try their Veg flavorsome kababs which indeed had an delightful aroma to it and were delicious too. so much for a vegetarian.

From the old Nawabi Lucknow by the day we were heading off to a swanky Cyber Heights in the evening - to a lounge, Scott and a Barrel. The crowd there was like any big metro but the goodness was the familiarity the crowd had. My local frds their hosted us and we had a great evening. 

Day 2

We decided to take it easy and relax through the morning and left only in the scorching hours for sight seeing- starting with breakfast at the poppular Sharmaji ki Chai - which is famous for  - Chai, bun maska and Samoso (Tea, bread and home made butter) and headed off to the old city and the landmark Bara Imambara but alas there was some event so couldn't go, however went around in the tanga (horse cart) to  the grand Rumi Darwaza, Choto Imambara, Jamma Masjid and the Bowli - stepwell there. We got food from Dastarkhan for my meat loving frd and head back to the hotel and chilled, The hotel pool was serene.  My frds had informed me about this event and Sunanina from the hotel was kind enough to organise an invite for us. The scorching afternoons turned to pleasant evenings. It was the finale' of the annual Wajid Ali Shah Festival,  where they performed YAMUNA- Dariya prem ka - Directed by Muzzafar Ali, held at the Dilkhush Palace Gardens - where they had a traditional shehnai performance at the entrance and the actually performance was choreographed and executed marvelously, I think I was lucky...I wanted to see the Bada Imambara and the Rumi Darwaze by the night all lit up and it was a sight from where we requested our uber guy to let us takeaway some authentic Awadhi/Lucknawi food (Chicken Biryani and Kababs and Basket Chaat) for dinner n he was so humble to let us by saying " aap hamare mehmaan ho" (U r our guests). We had some chilled wine at their lit up rooftop bar Seraca with a lovely view of the dome right ahead of us and the stars above us. Would otherwise be perfect for an romantic evening or a party for 50. Later we moved to the portico closer to our rooms where the hotel staff had set a table with dinner that we had got. The hotel is designed in such a way that every room has an area outside where they have placed some rot iron garden furniture.  

Day 3 

It was our last day and a Monday, so work calls poured in and only allowed us to go to the Bara Immambara by 11am by when the sun was already blaring. However the magnificent structure distracted us. Once we got in we were quite captivated. It was built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud -daula. The entrance of it itself makes you feel like you are walking into an palace with 2 humongous  arches with exquisite work on different levels separated by a well kept garden. The main facade has high ceilings with elaborate patterns on the dome, running parapets and chandeliers, looking at which, strained our necks. We followed listening to our guide narrating the enchanting history of the Palace. We found the magic of this palace was in the corridors we could hear even the whispers clearly from one end to another - deewaron ke bhi kaan hoten hai... The guide asked us to stand at one end of the parapet balcony of the the Bara Imambara and lit a match stick which we heard clearly - the magic.. From there we went to the Bhoolbhulaiya - the magical maze  - without a guide one is sure to get lost in the twisted different levels of the palace where again the whispers are audible from anywhere to anywhere. This lead to the vast airy terrace.

Next is the Bowli (Well) which is just outside the main building of the Bada Imambara and is lovely, its similar to the wells in Gujrat. Again  the well is of 4 floors and its pretty complicated to reach to the floors above and  below.

There is science to it. from the top floor with the right placement of the windows one could see the person standing at the entrance and when an enemy, back in the day stood at the entrance the soldiers shot arrows from here straight targeting the enemy. It was said that the key to a the shahi khazana (Royal treasure) was thrown  into this well, which probably flowed into the Gomti river. After all this history and walking around in the sun we were so done.

We ordered some lunch and relaxed at the hotel until it was time for us to leave for the airport. Our checkout would have been around 1pm but Sunanina was kind enough to offer us to stay back until 5ish. 

Its true when they talk about the Lucknawi way of life - the adab and the tehzeeb along with the warmth they have is altogether different. In short Lucknow was a great experience and if one has additional 2 days they must try visiting the Dudhwa National Park. 

                                     http://www.lebua.com/lebua-lucknow  Lebua Lucknow

The La Martinieres

Bada Immambara and Rumi Darwaza